Lately, I’ve found myself in a bit of a crochet bookmark season. Maybe it’s the quiet of early mornings or the sense of calm I seek after a day of homeschooling my son, but these small projects have become a delightful addition to my daily routine.

I recently came across a lovely lace stitch in one of my old crochet books and decided to turn it into a bookmark. It’s simple, just single, double, and single crochet together stitches. You don’t even realize how quickly the rows build up. Your hands keep going, and your heart begins to rest. It’s the kind of project where you can pray, reflect, or simply breathe while you work.

This particular bookmark is long and delicate, with a little tail rope tassel at the end. At about 7.5 inches (or 10.5 inches with the tail), it stays tucked safely even in the thickest books, perfect for those longer reads that take a while to finish (hello, homeschool curriculums and devotionals!).

What I’ve come to love most about making these bookmarks is how they remind me of motherhood. Every stitch, like every lesson I teach or conversation I have with my son, may feel small in the moment – but over time, something beautiful is being built. Just like the slow formation of diamonds, it happens bit by bit, quietly, and with care.

Crocheting gives me space to think, to pray, to be still. And sometimes, in the middle of a busy and hard season, that’s exactly what our hearts need. So if you’re a mama walking the homeschool road, maybe you’ll find comfort in picking up a little project like this. Not just for the result, but for the pause it gives you. A chance to reflect, to rest, and to remember that even the smallest things we do with love can carry lasting meaning.

Want to Make One?

Continue below for the FREE crochet pattern. You can also download an ad-free, printable PDF HERE.

MATERIALS:

• Hook: No.6 Japan crochet hook / 1.00mm crochet hook
• Small yarn needle
• Yarn: 3-ply Mercerized cotton yarn (I used approximately 35 meters of Monaco yarn for one bookmark)

ABBREVIATION/STITCHES:

• ch – chain 
• sc – single crochet (US) / dc – double crochet (UK)
• dc – double crochet (US) / tr – treble stitch (UK)
• sc2tog – single crochet stitch together
• st(s) – stitch(es)
• sl st – slip stitch

If you need guide with the stitches, you can always check my blog post about Basic Crochet Techniques HERE. 

NOTES:

• Chain 5 at the beginning of each row is considered as one double crochet stitch and two chains
• Make sure to leave at least 3” of yarn for securing/weaving the end.
• My finished bookmark measures approximately 1.5″ wide and 7.5″ long (10.5″ with the tassel/rope tail)
• Any variations to hook size and yarn weight will also result in a different-sized bookmark.

PATTERN

Start by making 18 chain loops.

Row 1: sc into the 2nd ch from hook, sc into each of the next remaining foundation chains, ch 1, turn. (17 sc sts made)

Row 2-Row 3: sc into each of the sts, ch 1, turn. (17 sc sts made)

Row 4: sc into the first 3 sts, ch 5, skip 3 chains, sc into each of the next 5 sts, ch 5, skip 3 chains, sc into each of the last 3 sts, ch 1, turn. 

Row 5: sc into each of the first 2 sts, ch 3, sc into the next 5ch arch, ch 3, skip 1 sc st, sc into each of the next 3 sts, ch 3, sc into the next 5ch arch, ch 3, skip 1 sc st, sc into each of the last 2 sts, ch 1, turn.

Row 6: sc into first st, ch 3, sc into the 3ch arch, sc into the next st, sc into the next 3ch arch, ch 3, skip 1 sc st, sc into the next st, ch 3, sc into the next 3ch arch, sc into the next st, sc into the last 3ch arch, ch 3, skip 1 sc st, sc into the last st.

Row 7: ch 5 (count as 1dc + 2ch), turn, sc into the 3ch arch, sc into each of the next 3 sts, sc into the next 3ch arch, ch 5, sc into the next 3ch arch, sc into each of the next 3 sts, sc into the last 3ch arch, ch 2, dc into the last st, ch 1, turn.

Row 8: sc into the dc st, ch 3, skip 1 sc st, sc into each of the next 3 sts, ch 3, sc into the 5ch arch, ch 3, skip 1 sc st, sc into each of the next 3 sts, ch 3, sc into the 3rd chain of beginning 5ch below, ch 1, turn.

Row 9: sc into first st, sc into the first 3ch arch, ch 3, skip 1 sc st, sc into the next st, ch 3, sc into the next 3ch arch, sc into the next st, sc into the next 3ch arch, ch 3, skip 1 sc st, sc into the next st, ch 3, sc into the 3ch arch, sc into the last st, ch 1, turn.

Row 10: sc into each of the first 2 sts, sc into first 3ch arch, ch 5, sc into the next 3ch arch, sc into each of the next 3 sts, sc into next 3ch arch, ch 5, sc into the last 3ch arch, sc into each of the last 2 sts, ch 1, turn.

At this point, you’ll see that you were able to form 2 diamond-shaped stitches from the completed rows. Isn’t that amazing?!

Repeat from Row 5 to Row 10, 9 times more until it measures approximately 7.5 inches (or until you reach your desired length). My total number of completed rows to this point is 64 rows.

Do not cut yarn, continue crocheting the remaining rows below to create the tassel rope hole.

Row 65-Row 67: Repeat Row 5 to Row 7 one more time.

Row 68: sc2tog in the first sc st and in the 2ch space, 

sc into each of the next 5 sts, sc 5 timesin the 5ch arch, sc into each of the next 5 sts, sc into the 3rd chain of beginning 5ch below, ch 1, turn. (17 sc sts made)

Row 69-Row 70: sc into each of the sts, ch 1, turn. (17 sc sts made)

Fasten off and weave ends.

TAIL ROPE & MINI TASSEL

I used the same yarn as my bookmark and measured out a length of 235 cm. I then folded the yarn into three equal parts and inserted one end into the tail hole of the bookmark. Holding both ends of the yarn, I twisted it in the opposite direction until it was tight enough to hold its shape and form the rope I wanted. Finally, I made a knot, leaving about 1.5 inches of yarn at the end to create a mini tassel.

You can check How to Make a Yarn Rope video by Wylde & Plumb channel to make the bookmark tail.

May this bookmark bring joy to your hands and peace to your heart. I hope it finds its place tucked into pages that matter. Happy crocheting!

As a mother, a wife, a homemaker, and a daughter, life is often overflowing. The dishes pile up, the laundry is endless, and someone always needs something. And while I embrace this calling with all my heart, I’ve come to realize – through quiet tears, long nights, and a difficult season, that taking care of myself isn’t selfish. It’s necessary.

That gentle but life-changing truth led me to pause and reflect on the woman I’ve been, the one who has stumbled, fallen short, and carried a past only grace could cover. And yet, through it all, God’s faithfulness has remained unwavering.

In the middle of my mess and growth, He gave me the most beautiful gift: My little family. 

When I look at my husband and my son, I see not just love. I see redemption, purpose, and the tender mercies of God made visible. They are my greatest blessings, and I thank Him for them every single day.

That awareness brought me back to living with intention. These days, I’ve made it a sacred rhythm to begin my mornings slowly – with my Bible, my devotional, and a warm cup of coffee. Even if it’s just for a few quiet minutes, that time with the Lord fills me in a way nothing else can. It’s a pause before the noise, a grounding that centers me for whatever the day may hold.

In that quiet moment, I also began to rediscover an old hobby: crocheting vintage-style bookmarks. It happened almost by chance one peaceful morning when my hands reached for yarn and thread. What felt like a simple creative idea turned into something much more meaningful, a reconnection to a part of myself I hadn’t explored in years.

As I make these bookmarks, sometimes with worship music playing softly in the background, other times in silence – I often sense the Lord gently reminding me: You are seen. You are loved. You are enough. 

I have learned to care for my heart by slowing down. Making bookmarks has become part of this process. It is a simple activity that combines my spiritual devotion with quiet creativity. This helps me stay grounded, present, and focused.

Why These Bookmarks Matter

Reading was one of my favorite pastimes when I was younger. I especially liked stories set in the 1800s and early 1900s. What I loved most were the little details – the handmade things like quilts, embroidered hankies, doilies, and of course, bookmarks. They felt so personal and meaningful, a kind of quiet beauty that stayed with me.

I also believe there’s something special about making things with our hands. When we create, I think we’re reflecting the heart of our Creator – a whisper of healing, a small expression of love, and a gentle reminder that God is present, even in the tiniest threads of our lives.

These 9 Crochet Vintage Bookmarks are more than just pretty little things, they are tokens of grace. Each stitch becomes a quiet prayer. Each design, a reflection of gentle strength and beauty.

These are not my own designs, but they are my favorite free crochet bookmark patterns I’ve discovered and made along the way. Whether you’re an experienced crocheter or just learning, each one invites you to pause, pray, and create something beautiful with your hands.

Each carries its own charm and is perfect for:

• Tucking into your Bible or devotional
• Gifting to a friend who needs encouragement
• Sending to a loved one far away
• Reminding yourself that you are loved and cherished

“She is clothed with strength and dignity; she can laugh at the days to come.” – Proverbs 31:25

Be sure to support these wonderful designers by visiting their websites, sharing their work, or leaving a kind comment. They’ve shared something beautiful with the world, freely and generously.

Free Crochet Vintage Bookmark Patterns

1. Crochet Lace Corner Bookmark

by Alyssa of Joy As It Flies

This is a straightforward corner bookmark that is perfect for beginners and complements any color of yarn, reflecting your unique personality.

2. Crochet Blissful Bookmark

by StrommerCrafts

This bookmark exudes a charming vintage-inspired vibe, offering an elegant and nostalgic touch. It’s just the right choice for showcasing a classic natural color yarn.

3. Beauty for Ashes Bookmark

by Deborah Ziegler

The designer describes this bookmark as being inspired by Isaiah 61:3. It makes for a wonderful last-minute gift or a lovely item to include in your church’s bazaar.

4. Deta’s Bookmark

by Torun Johansson

One of my favorite patterns to gift to my boho-loving friends. It captures the essence of both vintage charm and beach vibes, inspiring a sense of adventure and creativity.

5. Vintage Crochet Lace Bookmark

by Kirsten Holloway

This charming vintage-style bookmark features a beautiful floral design, making it a delightful choice for nature enthusiasts. It showcases elegant lines and intricate crochet stitches that add a touch of craftsmanship.

6. Birgitta’s Bookmark

by Torun Johansson

The design is inspired by a piece of lace from a bedsheet created by the designer’s maternal grandmother in the 1930s. It is named after the designer’s mother, an avid reader for whom this bookmark was originally designed. The pattern is relatively easy, although it can be challenging when using thin yarn and a small hook.

7. Emmi Hai Bookmark

by CraftyEmmi

A beautiful flower bookmark, inspired by the elegance of an Egyptian lotus, uplifting every reading experience.

8. Millie Bookmark Crochet Pattern

by Shannon of The Loophole Fox

This bookmark pattern is a delightful and textured project that comes together quickly, making it ideal for using up yarn scraps. Designed to fit various book sizes, it is inspired by the beautiful texture found in the wall hanging part of the Millie Basket, another creation by the designer. Let your creativity flow!

9. Crochet Lace Bookmark Pattern

by Crochet Bits

This lace bookmark, inspired by vintage designs, is ideal for a fine yarn, allowing it to fit snugly into any closed book while keeping it lightweight. Its intricate pattern, featuring repeating diamonds and triangles, adds a delicate and charming touch that captivates the eye.

Blessings and grace, from my heart to yours.

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Back in 2022, three years ago now, I started a project that felt so full of promise. Like many things, it was gently set aside as life grew full – homeschooling, housework, and the whirlwind of motherhood that often leaves little room for yarn and hooks. My mama brain just couldn’t carry it all.

But some patterns are too special to let go.

I first stumbled upon this stitch on Pinterest, and although I couldn’t find its exact name, it immediately captured my heart. It features three rows of moss stitch with one row of double crochet – simple, but oh, the texture! I fell in love at first sight. I knew I had to turn it into something beautiful, and that something became a triangle shawl.

The moment I saw the texture coming together, the first image that came to mind was the “birch path” from Anne of Green Gables, a soft, storybook moment brought to life in yarn.

About the Pattern

The Generosa Shawl is a triangle-shaped wrap that blends structure and softness. It’s crocheted using a combination of single crochet, chain stitches, and a classic double crochet, somewhat  bringing to mind the comforting repetition of the traditional granny stitch. I also include an easy technique for an alternative turning chain, which gives a neater edge and creates a proper double crochet stitch.

It’s perfect for confident beginners who are comfortable with these basic stitches. The shape adds a timeless, classic feel, while the color and airy texture give it a relaxed, beachy vibe. It’s one of those wraps you’ll want to keep nearby all summer long, light enough for warm days, cozy enough for cool evenings or chilly office AC.

Why “Generosa”?

This shawl holds a special place in my heart, and I chose to name it in honor of my great-grandmother, my mother’s Lola – Generosa. (Pronounced He-ne-ro–sa). A name that carries kindness, strength and grace, just like the women who came before me.

What Makes It Special

The Generosa Shawl’s construction allows for endless color play. The moss stitch stripes mixed with rows of double crochet showcase color transitions beautifully, especially with hand-dyed yarns. The mesh-like sections keep the shawl light and breathable, making it ideal for layering without the bulk.

It’s elegant yet casual, classic yet modern, and best of all, it’s easy to make your own. You can customize the size to suit your style, and the design is clean and complete as-is, no borders needed!

Want to Make One?

Continue below for the full step-by-step FREE crochet pattern for the Generosa Shawl! 

You can also download an ad-free, free printable PDF HERE and follow along with the step-by-step video tutorial on how to make an alternative turning chain (dc) stitch from my Instagram post.

MATERIALS:

• Hook: 3.5mm crochet hook (US E-4 / UK 9)
• Yarn: 255 meters Fingering Weight yarn, Regular Gradient Yarn in Paradise Colorway by Ashley’s Crochet
• Tapestry needle

ABBREVIATION/STITCHES:

• ch – chain 
• sc – single crochet (US) / dc – double crochet (UK)
• dc – double crochet (US) / tr – treble stitch (UK)
• st(s) – stitch(es)
• sl st – slip stitch
• Asterisk * – repeat the pattern from point where you see this symbol. 

SPECIAL STITCH:

• Alternative turning chain (dc) – without making a chain, turn your work to begin the next row, insert the hook in the first stitch, yarn over then pull a loop into the stitch, yarn over then pull a loop into both loops on your hook, next insert the hook in the front left spike of the stitch below, yarn over then pull a loop into the spike, lastly yarn over then pull a loop into both loops on your hook

If you need guide with the stitches, you can always check my blog post about Basic Crochet Techniques HERE. 

NOTES:

• Chain 3 (alternative turning chain (dc) at the beginning of each row is considered as one double crochet stitch.
• Make sure to leave at least 6” of yarn for securing/weaving the end.
• My finished shawl measures XX
• Any variations to hook size and yarn weight will also result in a different-sized shawl.

PATTERN:

Turn your work after each row.

Chain 3, sl st in the first chain to join.

Row 1: do an alternative dc beginning chain (counted as a dc st here and throughout), ch 1 +  dc + ch 2 + dc + ch 1 + dc in the ring

Row 2: ch 1 (doesn’t count as a st here and throughout, turn, sc in first sc st, ch 1, sc + ch 1 in chain one space, sc + ch 2 + sc in chain two space, ch 1, sc + ch 1 in chain one space, sc in the last st

Row 3: ch 1, turn, sc in first st, ch 1, sc + ch 1 in first chain one space, sc + ch 1 in next chain one space, sc + ch 2 + sc in chain two space, ch 1, sc + ch 1 in next chain one space, sc + ch 1 in last chain one space, sc in the last sc st

Row 4: ch 1, turn, sc in first st, ch 1, sc + ch 1 in each of the next chain one spaces, sc + ch 2 + sc in chain two space, ch 1, sc + ch 1 in each of the next chain one spaces, sc in the last sc st

Row 5: turn, do an alternative dc turning chain (dc), 2dc in the same stitch as your turning dc, 2dc in first chain one space, 2dc in each of the next chain one spaces, 4dc in chain two space, 2dc in each of the next chain one spaces, 3dc in the last sc st  

Row 6: ch 1, turn, sc in first st, ch 1, sc + ch 1 in space between the first and second dc st, *skip two dc sts, sc + ch 1 in next space, repeat from * until you reach the space before the 4 middle dc sts, skip two dc sts, sc + ch 2 + sc in the next space, ch 1, *skip two dc sts, sc + ch 1 in next space, repeat from * until end of row, sc in the last dc st

Row 7-8: Repeat Row 4

Row 9: Repeat Row 5

Row 10: Repeat Row 6

Row 11-12: Repeat Row 4

Row 13: Repeat Row 5

Row 14: Repeat Row 6

Row 15-16: Repeat Row 4

Row 17: turn, do an alternative dc turning chain (dc), ch 1 + dc in the same stitch as your turning dc, ch 1, dc + ch 1 in each of the next chain one spaces, dc + ch 2 + dc in chain two space, ch 1, dc + ch 1 in each of the next chain one spaces, dc + ch + dc in the last sc st

Row 18: ch 1, turn, sc in first st, ch 1, sc + ch 1 in each of the next chain one spaces, sc + ch 2 + sc in chain two space, ch 1, sc + ch 1 in each of the next chain one spaces, sc in the last dc st

Row 19: ch 1, turn, sc in first st, ch 1, sc + ch 1 in each of the next chain one spaces, sc + ch 2 + sc in chain two space, ch 1, sc + ch 1 in each of the next chain one spaces, sc in the last sc st

Row 20: Repeat Row 19

Row 21: Repeat Row 17

Row 22: Repeat Row 18

Row 23-24: Repeat Row 19

Repeat Rows 5–24 until your shawl reaches your desired size. When working your final repeat, you can choose to stop after Row 8, Row 12, or Row 16, whichever works best for your remaining yarn. Just be mindful of your yarn quantity as you approach the end.

Fasten off and weave ends, no border needed!

Whether you’re new to crochet or picking up your hook again after a break, the Generosa Shawl is a beautiful, meaningful project to ease into. I hope it brings you as much joy and comfort as it brought me.

Happy crocheting!

Last month, my son and I jumped into a fun and surprisingly heartwarming project – making our very own magnetic bookmarks! It all started on a quiet afternoon right after his weekly online lab with our homeschool provider, Centris Homeschool. That week’s life skills lesson was all about entrepreneurship: understanding buying and selling power, evaluating whether an item is worth purchasing, and brainstorming ideas for products they might want to sell at the upcoming Family Day. The kids were tossing around ideas like handmade bracelets, baked goodies, slime kits, and even offering self-defense training! Naturally, that got our wheels turning. We dug through an old box of craft supplies and ta-da!found some magnetic sheets leftover from our kindergarten homeschooling days. Who knew that little discovery would spark such a big idea?

A Personalized Touch: Art and Scripture

To make our bookmarks extra special, we decided to personalize them using some of my son’s favorite artwork from over the years. He carefully selected each piece – paintings and drawings that brought back memories and showed how much his creativity has grown. After photographing each one in high resolution, we turned to Canva AI for a little digital help. We used it to thoughtfully overlay his favorite Bible verses on the images. I made sure to note in the prompt that the artwork needed to remain untouched in style and quality because preserving the heart behind each piece was important to both of us.

The Bookmark Making Process

Once our designs were finalized, we formatted them carefully in a Word document and printed them on glossy photo paper to make the colors really pop. Then came the hands-on part, cutting them out and attaching magnetic strips. Here’s where it got a bit tricky: we used double-sided tape to affix the magnets, but had to make sure they aligned properly so the bookmarks would close and “clamp” neatly onto a page. (A helpful tip: test the magnets first to ensure they attract rather than repel each other before taping them down!)

The end result? A set of beautiful, functional bookmarks that showcase Eion’s artwork and meaningful verses, perfect for keeping our place in storybooks, devotionals, or school materials.

Since we weren’t able to attend Family Day as we had a family outing planned for Mama’s birthday, we decided to send the magnetic bookmarks as small gifts for Eion’s teachers and classmates. It felt like a thoughtful way to stay connected with the community even though we couldn’t be there in person, and it made Eion proud to share something he worked hard on.

Step-by-Step: How to Make Your Own Magnetic Bookmarks

Materials:

• Glossy photo paper
• High-resolution images (artwork, photos, etc.)
• Favorite quotes or verses
• Image editing software (or use AI tools to overlay text)
• Printable magnetic sheets or magnetic strips
• Double-sided tape
• Scissors or a paper trimmer
• (Optional) Cold laminator
• (Optional) Cold laminating sheets

Instructions:

1. Choose your artwork: Pick drawings, paintings, or digital art that you’d love to turn into bookmarks.

2. Photograph or scan the art: Make sure the quality is high so the image prints nicely.

3. Add text: Overlay quotes, Bible verses, or personalized messages onto the image using editing software or an AI assistant, then save it as JPG file type.

4. Format in Word processing document: Combine two images, rotating the top one upside down. Each image should be about 6 cm x 4 cm, but you can resize as needed. Duplicate the formatted image until you fill your paper.

See image below for reference:

5. Print the designs: Use glossy photo paper for a vibrant, finished look.

6. Laminate (optional): For added durability, use a cold laminator to laminate each design before cutting.

7. Cut them out: Trim the edges neatly with scissors or a paper trimmer.

8. Attach magnets: Cut magnet strips to size, ensuring they’re aligned correctly. Use double-sided tape to attach them to the back of each bookmark.

9. Test and enjoy: Clip them over a page to test the magnetic hold and alignment. Then, start using or gifting your new bookmarks!

This project was a lovely way for us to spend quality time together while celebrating Eion’s creativity and faith. Whether you’re looking for a meaningful craft idea or a unique DIY gift, magnetic bookmarks are a simple yet special way to combine art, function, and personal inspiration.

Have you ever made bookmarks or similar keepsakes with your kids? I’d love to hear your ideas in the comments below!

After about three years of silence, I finally found the time and the courage to reconnect and share what’s been happening in our lives. Well, life got wonderfully full! Homeschooling our only son, managing the home, and running daily errands took up most of my time. Every day felt full, and truthfully, so did my heart, and sometimes my hands!

This season has been challenging, as my husband has been working abroad, faithfully providing for us while supporting our homeschooling journey from afar. We’ve been homeschooling for five years now, and we’re stepping into our sixth year with deeper faith, clearer purpose, and a heart full of gratitude. Looking back, it’s amazing to see how much we’ve all grown, not just academically, but in character, resilience, and our walk with God. Each year has brought its own set of lessons, stretching me in ways I never expected. Navigating the day-to-day on my own hasn’t always been easy, but my husband’s encouragement, whether through a voice call, video call, or a message, has meant the world to me. Even from miles away, he remains a steady source of wisdom, strength, and love in the rhythm of our family life.

Some friends have asked me over the years: Why did you choose to homeschool? It’s not a simple question, and to be honest, there were times I asked myself the same thing. I remember one particular moment when my husband, sensing my exhaustion, asked me, “Kaya pa ba, be?” (Can you still do it, be?) I had one of those days, the kind of homeschool day that ends with me dramatically saying, “I’m done homeschooling!” But of course, what I meant was that I was done for the day, or maybe for the week. My husband and I both knew that the next morning, I’d be right back at it again. So I looked at him, smiled, and said, “Kaya pa, be.”

Our Homeschool “Why”

When it comes to educating our son, we always think long-term. What do we want to accomplish by the end of our homeschooling (and parenting) journey? What kind of person do we hope he becomes?

The answer lies in being intentional. And the thing that helps us stay grounded, especially during hard days, is returning to our Why. Why did we start homeschooling in the first place? What are our goals, our purpose, and our priorities?

To keep ourselves aligned, I wrote down our family’s Vision and Mission Statements, grounded in our current life setting and rooted in our values.

Our Vision:

“For our son to grow into a healthy person – physically, intellectually, morally, and spiritually. We want him to love God with all his heart and mind, to be fully equipped for every good thing God calls him to do and to use his gifts and talents to serve and bless others, all for the glory of God.”

To support this, we also made a Family Promise, a covenant, a shared commitment that guides how we live and teach. One of the verses we hold close to is Matthew 6:33, and we continually remind ourselves to prioritize “character over curriculum”. More than academic success, we desire for our son to develop the kind of character that can weather life with wisdom, grace, and faith.

Our Mission:

“To ground our son in biblical truth and reason, not to shield him from the world, but to guide him in understanding it. To equip him with the tools to learn well and discern God’s will for his life.”

Our Family Core Values

Lastly, to help us stay consistent with our homeschool vision and mission, we came up with a simple but powerful acronym to define our Family Core Values: GLOW IN THE DARK. Each letter reminds us of the traits and principles we want to live out and instill in our son:

G – Grace
L – Love
O – Obedience
W – Wisdom

I – Integrity
N – Nurture

T – Time Together
H – Honor
E – Excellence

D – Discipline
A – Accountability
R – Resilience
K – Kindness

These values guide how we relate to each other as a family, how we navigate challenges, and how we approach homeschooling every day. It’s not just about academics, it’s about building a life and legacy that shines even in dark moments.

We know this journey isn’t easy. There are days filled with doubts, tears, and tiredness. But, there’s also deep joy and purpose. And every time we come back to our Why, we’re reminded: Kaya pa!

To those who ask if homeschooling is worth it, it is. Not because it’s easy, but because it matters. And to those on the same path, especially those doing it while loved ones are far away, keep going. Keep showing up. One faithful day at a time.

(By the way, the AI-made family photo of us is just too cute. I hope you don’t mind me sharing it!)

What’s Next?

This blog began as a place where I shared my crochet journey, and that part of my life is still very much alive. In the coming weeks, I’ll begin posting again about my crochet projects (yes, the hooks and yarn are back!) and even some of the homeschool projects we’ve been working on together as a family.

So whether you’re here for the crafts, the homeschool reflections, or a little bit of both, welcome back. I’m so glad you’re here.

I’ve been thinking of a simple backpack design since I first made the Crochet Foldaway Mesh Bag three years ago. Finally, here it is! Say hello to my new Crochet No-Sew Convertible Backpack! 

It’s an eco-friendly bag that you can quickly convert from a backpack to a purse. I designed it to be spacious enough to fit a lot of things so it’s great for travel, beach, pool, or everyday use.

It’s my first time using nylon yarn, and I love how the material feels light but shapes the bag well. Of course, you could easily make this bag with any yarn you like. 

You see, I like sharing patterns that are simple and a little bit mindless, without complicated stitch designs but modern-looking. With this bag, you’ll only need to have an understanding of two simple stitches; the double crochet stitch and the half double crochet stitch, both of which are easy to learn. Also, if you find sewing the most boring part of crocheting (like me, haha) you’ll love this project. I made the double-layer base with a handle insert so this means absolutely no seaming or spending time at the end of the project assembling everything. It’s perfect for beginner crocheters as well as advanced crocheters, and everyone in between.

MATERIALS:

• 5.0mm crochet hook (US H-8 / UK 6) for the bases and body
• 4.0mm crochet hook (US G-6 / UK 8) for the bag handle
• Yarn: 100% Nylon yarn (2MM) in light brown color. I used approximately 300M.

ABBREVIATION/STITCHES:

• ch – chain 
• sc – single crochet (US) / dc – double crochet (UK)
• hdc – half-double crochet (US) / htr – half-treble crochet (UK)
• dc – double crochet (US) / tr – treble crochet (UK)
• st(s) – stitch(es)
• sl st – slip stitch
• [sc, inc] n times – repeat the pattern between parentheses n times. 
• (N sts) – number of stitches in a row after finishing round.

If you need guide with the stitches, you can always check my blog post about Basic Crochet Techniques HERE. 

GAUGE:

16 dc sts and 8 rows = 5” square

NOTES:

• Chain 2 at the beginning of each row is not considered a stitch.
• Finished bag measures 13” height and 12” in width (measured flat lay, excluding base). You’ll be able to adjust this in length by adding more rows.
• Any variations to hook size and yarn weight will also result in a different sized bag.

PATTERN

INNER BASE:

(Using the 5.0mm crochet hook)

Chain 22 (I recommend making lose chains or use a one size bigger crochet hook as you will be working the half of the first round in back humps of each chain)

Round 1: dc in the 3rd chain from hook, 2dc in the next st, dc in each of the next 17 sts, 2dc in the last chain, (working on the other side of the base chains) dc in the first chain, 2dc in the next chain, dc in each of the next 17 chains, 2dc in the last chain, sl st in the first stitch to join (44 dc sts made)

Round 2: ch 2, 2dc in the same st as the beginning chain, 2dc in the next st, dc in each of the next 18 sts, 2dc in each of the next 4 sts, dc in each of the next 18 sts, 2dc in each of the last 2 sts, sl st in the first stitch to join (52 dc sts made)

Round 3: ch 2, 2dc in the same st as the beginning chain, 2dc in the next 2 sts, dc in each of the next 20 sts, 2dc in each of the next 6 sts, dc in each of the next 20 sts, 2dc in each of the last 3 sts, sl st in the first stitch to join (64 dc sts made)

Round 4: ch 2, 2dc in the same st as the beginning chain, 2dc in the next 3 sts, dc in each of the next 24 sts, 2dc in each of the next 8 sts, dc in each of the next 24 sts, 2dc in each of the last 4 sts, Sl St in the first stitch to join (80 dc sts made)

Cut the yarn and weave ends. 

BASE HANDLE INSERT: 

Row 1: Ch 22, dc in 3rd ch from hook, dc in each of the remaining chains (20 dc sts made)

Row 2-5: Ch 2, turn, dc in the same st as the beginning chain, dc in each of the next 19 sts across (20 dc sts made)

Fold the piece horizontally then insert hook into the very first base chain you made from Row 1, then pull the last loop you made from Row 5. Chain 1, *insert hook in all the 4 loops you see on top, yarn over then make an sc. Repeat from * until the end to join the folded piece (20 sc sts made)

Do not cut the yarn, we will continue crocheting the outer base. 

OUTER BASE: 

Round 1: ch 2, (work in front loops only) dc in the same st as the beginning chain, 2dc in the next st, dc in each of the next 17 sts, 2dc in the last st, (work in each of the remaining single loops on the other side) dc in the first st, 2dc in the next st, dc in each of the next 17 sts, 2dc in the last st, Sl St in the first stitch to join (44 dc sts made)

Round 2: ch 2, 2dc in the same st as the beginning chain, 2dc in the next st, dc in each of the next 18 sts, 2dc in each of the next 4 sts, dc in each of the next 18 sts, 2dc in each of the last 2 sts, Sl St in the first stitch to join (52 dc sts made)

Round 3: ch 2, 2dc in the same st as the beginning chain, 2dc in the next 2 sts, dc in each of the next 20 sts, 2dc in each of the next 6 sts, dc in each of the next 20 sts, 2dc in each of the last 3 sts, Sl St in the first stitch to join (64 dc sts made)

Round 4: ch 2, 2dc in the same st as the beginning chain, 2dc in the next 3 sts, dc in each of the next 24 sts, 2dc in each of the next 8 sts, dc in each of the next 24 sts, 2dc in each of the last 4 sts, Sl St in the first stitch to join (80 dc sts made)

JOINING THE INNER BASE AND OUTER BASE:

Place the inner base on top of the outer base (wrong side facing each other). 

Without removing the hook from the last loop of the outer base, insert hook into the first stitch made in Round 4 of the outer base then into the front loop only of the first stitch made in Round 4 of the inner base, pull yarn over into the 3 loops on the hook. Chain 2, dc into the same loops as the beginning chain.

Make a dc in each of the remaining 79 stitches across by inserting the hook into the next stitch made in Round 4 of the outer base then into the front loop only of the next stitch made in Round 4 of the inner base, sl st in the first stitch to join (80 dc sts made)

Do not cut yarn, we will continue crocheting the body of the bag.

BODY:

Round 1-16: ch 2, dc in the same st as the beginning chain, dc in each of the next sts around, Sl St in the first stitch to join (80 dc sts made)

Round 17: ch 2, hdc in the same st as the beginning chain, hdc in each of the next sts around, Sl St in the first stitch to join (80 hdc sts made)

Round 18: ch 2, (work this round in every 3rd loop of the hdc stitches) 

hdc in the first 3 sts, ch2, skip the next 2 sts, hdc in each of the next 6 sts, ch2, skip the next 2 sts, hdc in each of the next 14 sts, [ch2, skip the next 2 sts, hdc in each of the next 6 sts] 3 times, ch2, skip the next 2 sts, hdc in each of the next 14 sts, ch2, skip the next 2 sts, hdc in each of the next 6 sts, ch2, skip the next 2 sts, hdc in the last 3 sts, Sl St in the first stitch to join (64 hdc sts and 8 chain spaces made)

Round 19: ch 2, (work this round in every 3rd loop of the hdc stitches and back hump of each chain) dc in the first 3 sts, dc in the next 2 chains, dc in the next 6 sts, dc in the next 2 chains, dc in the next 14 sts, [dc in the next 2 chains, dc in the next 6 sts] 3 times, dc in the next 2 chains, dc in the next 14 sts, dc in the next 2 chains, dc in the next 6 sts, dc in the next 2 chains, dc in the last 3 sts, Sl St in the first stitch to join (80 dc sts made)

Round 20: (work in all stitches as you normally do) ch 2, dc in the same st as the beginning chain, dc in each of the next sts around, Sl St in the first stitch to join (80 dc sts made)

Round 21: ch 1, slip stitch in the same st as the beginning chain, slip stitch in each of the next sts around, Sl St in the first stitch to join (80 sl sts made)

Fasten off then secure the ends. 

I-CORD HANDLE:  

(I switched to 4.0mm crochet hook)

Chain 4 

Round 1: Insert hook into the back hump of the 2nd chain from hook, yarn over then pull a loop. *Insert hook into the back hump of the next chain, yarn over then pull a loop. Repeat from * to the last chain. You should have 4 loops on your hook.

Round 2: While holding the loops securely remove the hook from the last 3 loops. Yarn over then pull a loop into the first loop made from previous round. *Insert hook into the next loop made from previous round, yarn over then pull a loop. Repeat from * to the last loop. You should have 4 loops on your hook.

Repeat Round 2 until you get your desired length for your bag handle. My finished i-cord measures 63.5″ long.

Closing the i-cord: While holding the loops securely remove the hook from the last 3 loops. Yarn over then pull a loop into the first loop made from previous round. *Insert hook into the next loop made from the previous round, yarn over then pull a loop into the 2 loops on the hook. Repeat from * until you only have 1 loop on the hook. Fasten off and secure the ends leaving at least 10 inches tail.

HANDLE FASTENER:

Chain 10, slip stitch to the first chain to join. Chain 2, dc in the back hump of the each chain, sl st in the first stitch to join. Fasten off and secure the ends. (10 dc sts made)

Note: You can adjust the number of chains/stitches based on how tight you want the fastener to be. 

ASSEMBLY:

Weave the handle into the bag holes, then insert both ends into the adjustable insert. 

Insert and pull one end of the handle into the base handle insert until you have a certain length to comfortably crochet and join the other end. 

You can refer to the picture below on how I joined the ends by making single crochet stitches.

Lastly, fasten off and weave in ends. You may pull the handle inside the base insert to hide the joined section.

I’m blown away by your response to my Crochet Foldaway Mesh Bag! So, I’m sharing another foldaway bag pattern using a new crochet stitch that I learned last year – the double lattice crochet stitch (hence the bag name).

I finished making this bag during our Holy Week break. It does take a few hours to make, but it’s certainly worth it! It’s also a very easy pattern when you get the hang of it. Like my Crochet Foldaway Mesh Bag, this is worked from the bottom up. After row 5, repeat rows 4 to 5 until you get the length you want. Follow additional steps to make the handle and then sew the base back and forth using the running stitch method. And you’re done! 

The Crochet Foldaway Double Lattice Stitch bag is so versatile that you can take it on your next grocery trip just like Mama in the photo. If you are heading to the beach or park, stuff it with a towel and sunscreen, a book, or a crochet project.

MATERIALS:

• Hook: 4.0mm crochet hook (US G-6 / UK 8)
• Yarn: Dapper Dreamer Combed Cotton yarn in Stone color. I used approximately 80% of the whole skein. 
• Tapestry needle
• Stitch markers

ABBREVIATION/STITCHES:

• ch – chain 
• sc – single crochet (US) / dc – double crochet (UK)
• tr – treble crochet (US) / dtr – double treble (UK)
• sc2tog – crochet two single crochet stitches together
• tr2tog – crochet two treble crochet stitches together
• st(s) – stitch(es)
• sl st – slip stitch
• Asterisk * – repeat the pattern from point where you see this symbol. 
• (N sts) – number of stitches in a row after finishing round.

If you need guide with the stitches, you can always check my blog post about Basic Crochet Techniques HERE. 

GAUGE:

• 4 clusters and 8 rows = 5” square
• 1 Cluster: tr2tog + tr + 4ch

NOTES:

• Chain 4 at the beginning of each row is considered as 1 treble stitch.
• Make sure to leave at least 2 yards of yarn for weaving the base.
• Finished bag measures 14” in height and 12.5” in width (measured flat lay). You’ll be able to adjust this in length by adding more rows and make it wider by adding more chains to the foundation chain. Total number of foundation chain should be in multiples of 6. 
• Any variations to hook size and yarn weight will also result in a different sized bag.

PATTERN

Chain 180 (I recommend making lose chains or use a one size bigger crochet hook as you will be working the first round in back humps of each chain), slip stitch into the first chain made. 

Round 1: ch 1, sc in each back humps of each chain around, sl st in the first sc made to join (180 sc sts made)

Round 2: ch 8, tr in the same st as the beginning ch, *tr2tog inserting hook into next sc st for first leg and then into following 5th sc st for the second leg, skipping 4ch between, ch 4, tr in the same sc st as 2nd leg of cluster just made. Repeat from * to last 5 sc sts, make a tr in the next sc st then without closing the st, sl st into the 4th ch of beginning ch to join (30 clusters made)

Round 3: ch 4, skipping 4ch between, tr in each of the first 2 tr sts, *ch 4, tr2tog inserting hook into the same st as previous tr made for first leg and then into the next tr st for the second leg, skipping 4ch between, tr in the next st. Repeat from * to end, ch 4, sl st into the first tr made to join (30 clusters made)

Round 4: ch 4, tr2tog inserting hook into the next tr st for first leg and then into the next tr st for the second leg, skipping 4ch between, *ch 4, tr in the same st as 2nd leg of cluster just made, tr2tog inserting hook into the next tr st for first leg and then into the next tr st for the second leg, skipping 4ch between. Repeat from * to last tr st and 4ch, ch 4, tr in the same st as 2nd leg of cluster just made, tr2tog inserting hook into the last tr st for first leg and then into the same st as the beginning ch for the second leg, skipping 4ch between, ch 4, sl st into the 4th ch of beginning ch to join (30 clusters made)

Round 5: ch 4, tr in the next st, *ch 4, tr2tog inserting hook into the same st as previous tr made for first leg and then into the next tr st for the second leg, skipping 4ch between, tr in the next st. Repeat from * to end, ch 4, make a tr in the same st as previous tr then without closing the st, sl st into the 4th ch of beginning ch to join (30 clusters made)

Round 6: repeat Round 4

Round 7: repeat Round 5

Round 8 to 22: Repeat Rounds 4 & 5 alternately

Round 23: ch 1, sc in the same st as beginning ch, sc in the next tr st, *sc 4 times in the 4ch space, sc in each of the next 2 tr sts, repeat from * to last 4ch space, sc 4 times in the 4ch space, sl st in the first sc made to join (180 sc sts made)

Round 24: ch 1, sl st in the same st as beginning ch, sl st in the next 24 sts, ch 100, skip 39 sts, sl st in the next st, sl st in each of the next 50 sts, ch 100, skip 39 sts, sl st in the next st,  sl st in each of the next 25 sts, sl st in the beginning ch made to join (102 sl sts and 200 chains made)

Round 25: ch 1, (leave the sl sts made from the previous Round untouched and crochet in the sc stitches made from Round 23 when making stitches for this round), sc in each of the 25 sc sts, sc in each back humps of next 100 chains, sc in each of the next 51 sc sts, sc in each back humps of next 100 chains, sc in each of the last 26 sc sts, sl st in the first sc made to join (302 sc sts made)

Round 26: ch 1, sl st in each of the sts around, sl st in the beginning ch made to join (302 sl sts made)

Round 27: ch 1, (leave the sl sts made from the previous Round untouched and crochet in the sc stitches made from Round 25 when making stitches for this round), sc in each of the first 24 sc sts, sc2tog in the next 2 sts, sc in the next st, sc2tog in the next 2 sts, sc in each of the next 92 sts, sc2tog in the next 2 sts, sc in the next st, sc2tog in the next 2 sts, sc in each of the next 49 sts, sc2tog in the next 2 sts, sc in the next st, sc2tog in the next 2 sts, sc in each of the next 92 sts, sc2tog in the next 2 sts, sc in the next st, sc2tog in the next 2 sts, sc in each of the last 24 sts. Cut the yarn leaving about 6 inches tail. (293 sc sts made)

Fastened off to the first chain made and weave in ends using a yarn needle. 

BASE ASSEMBLY: 

• Lay the piece on a flat surface as shown on my photo below. You will now work to create the sides of the bag by locating the center point. I recommend placing stitch markers so you’ll have guide when folding the sides later. 

• Once done marking, fold inwards on both the sides as shown below. If you are familiar with making a brown paper bag or gift bag, the same process of folding the sides applies here. 

• Sew the base back and forth using running stitch method. 

Lastly, fasten off then secure the ends. I cannot wait to start seeing your bags popping up on my feed! Please take a picture of your finished bag if you ever decide to make one. Share it on Instagram with the hashtag #iheartgantsilyo and tag @iheartgantsilyo.  Happy Crocheting!

Hello everyone! It has been quite some time since I’ve posted here and if you’re reading this and still following along, just know I am so grateful!

As much as I miss crocheting and sharing my projects here on the blog, taking a step back has been good not only for my hand and wrist but for my heart and soul as well. I was able to focus on the things most important to me instead of trying to do too much and becoming overwhelmed. I still visit this space once in a while though, and it warms my heart to see some of you already made items from my patterns which makes me want to continue designing more projects that you will enjoy. 

For a starter, I’m sharing the pattern for this simple crochet spray bottle holder that I made for myself and my family. 

This is a practical and must-have item especially during this time of the pandemic. Attaching a bottle of hand sanitizer or alcohol to your bag is a great way to make sure you always have the means to sanitize your hands. It has a modern textured design that does not take long to make so it’s a great project to do when you just need to clear your mind for a moment or if you need free therapy. With everything that happened (and still happening this year), we could use our days at home to be a little crafty and find small joys to accomplish things we often never had time for, or perhaps begin learning something new.

That said, continue scrolling to get to the pattern. I’ll pop on here now and then with new projects and you can message me if you need clarifications with this pattern or any other patterns on my blog. Meanwhile, let’s always choose to be kind out there, friends, and stay healthy! 

MATERIALS:

• Hook: No.6 Japan crochet hook / 1.00mm crochet hook
• Small yarn needle
• Yarn: Mercerized cotton yarn (I used approximately 58 meters of Cannon yarn for one spray bottle holder. 
• Large size (4.8cm x 1.6cm) metal lobster clasp hook/keychain or similar item

ABBREVIATION/STITCHES:

• ch – chain
• sc – single crochet (US) / dc – double crochet (UK)
• st(s) – stitch(es)
• sl st – slip stitch
• [sc, inc] n times – repeat the pattern between parentheses n times.
• (N sts made) – number of stitches in a round after finishing round.
• back loop only – instead of inserting your hook underneath the two loops of a single crochet stitch, you will insert the hook at the center of the stitch and exits underneath the back loop.
• back hump of each chain – bumps behind the foundation chains.

If you need a guide with the stitches, you can always check my post about Basic Crochet Techniques HERE.

NOTES:

PATTERN

BASE:

Chain 1 in a magic ring

Round 1: sc 6 in the magic ring, slip stitch into the first st made to join (6 sc sts made)

Round 2: ch 1, inc in each of the sts around, slip stitch into the first st made to join (12 sc sts made)

Round 3: ch 1, inc in each of the sts around, slip stitch into the first st made to join (24 sc sts made)

Round 4: ch 1, sc around, slip stitch into the first st made to join (24 sc sts made)

Round 5: ch 1, sc in the first st, inc in the next st, [sc in the next st, inc in the next st] 11 times, slip stitch into the first st made to join (36 sc sts made)

Round 6: ch 1, sc around, slip stitch into the first st made to join (36 sc sts made)

Round 7: ch 1, sc in each of the first 2 sts, inc in the next st, [sc in each of the next 2 sts, inc in the next st] 11 times, slip stitch into the first st made to join (48 sc sts made)

BODY:

Round 1: ch 35, sc in the 2nd ch from hook, sc in each of the remaining 33 chains. 

Hold the base with its right side facing you, then slip stich into the first sc st made from last round of base, slip stitch into the next sc st, turn by pushing the base backward. (34 sc sts made)

Round 2: skipping the 2 sl sts made, sc in back loop only of each of the 34 sts across. (34 sc sts made)

Round 3: ch 1, turn, sc in back loop only of each of the 34 sts across, sl st in next 2 sc sts from base, turn by pushing the base backward. (34 sc sts made)

NOTE: Basically, you will need to sl st in 2 sts around the base after every other row to attach the body to the base. 

Round 4 – 43: Repeat Rounds 2 & 3 alternately

NOTE: For the next round, I recommend making lose chains as you will be working stitches in the back humps of each chain.

Round 44: skipping the 2 sl sts made, sc in back loop only of each of the 34 sts across, ch 21, turn. (34 sc sts and 21 chains made)

Round 45: sc in the back hump of the 2nd chain from hook, sc in each of the back humps of next 19 chains, sc in back loop only of each of the 34 sts across, sl st in next 2 sc sts from base. (54 sc sts made)

Row 46: skipping the 2 sl sts made, sc in back loop only of each of the 34 sts across, sc in both loops of each remaining 20 sts. (54 sc sts made)

Round 47: ch 1, turn, sc in both loops of each 20 sts, sc in back loop only of each of the remaining 34 sts across, sl st in the last 2 sc sts from base. (54 sc sts made)

Round 48: Repeat Round 46

Round 49: ch 1, turn, sc in both loops of each 20 sts, sc in back loop only of each of the remaining 34 sts across, sl st again in the last sc st from base (54 sc sts made)

ASSEMBLY:

1. Remove the hook from the yarn loop.
2. Insert the hook in the first base chain made from Round 1 of the body.
3. Pull the unworked loop into that space. 
4. With the tail of the yarn positioned above the hook, insert hook into both loops of the last sc stitch made from Round 49 of the body.
5. Yarn over and pull a loop through that stitch.
6. Yarn over again then pull a loop into the two remaining loops on your hook. You just made your first sc stitch to start joining the two ends together! 

Making sure the two edges are properly aligned, insert the crochet hook into the second base chain made from Round 1 of the body and into the next sc stitch right under it, then make one single crochet. Repeat the same steps 32 times across to join the two ends together. (34 sc sts made)

Fasten off leaving approximately 8” long yarn tail. Thread in yarn needle. 

Put the lobster clamps keychain in place then fold the loop bar that will hold the keychain and sew its edge onto the body using running stitch method. 

Finally, insert your spray bottle, and voila!

Hello fellow crocheters! Today I am sharing my newest free crochet pattern that I’ve been working all May: the Foldaway Mesh Bag! This bag is my modern take on the traditional fishnet and plastic market bag that we have in the Philippines.

For years, I’ve seen tons of market bags designed by other makers and almost all of them are worked in the round from the bottom up. I actually made a few mini bags when I was a child and designed a Basketweave Stitch Pouch in that style last year. But growing up, I always wanted to create a crochet bag similar to my homegrown fishnet and plastic shopping bags wherein the sides of the bag were folded inwards and the base is secured by sewing everything together at the bottom. 

When this idea first came into my mind, I coudn’t imagine myself doing it as I didn’t have enough options back then for crochet materials. I guess, I just couldn’t imagine myself using a tiny steel crochet hook and mercerized cotton thread for this huge project. Now that I’m all grown up and have the necessary tools and yarn, I’m glad that this idea has finally come to life. And I love how it turned out! 

On the next photo below, you’ll see that the bottom of my bag was constructed like the base of a typical shopping bag but the two over-the-shoulder handles make it stylish enough to be carried anywhere. I worked it up using Dapper Dreamer Combed Cotton yarn which is one of my favorite medium weight yarns of all-time! I’ve been obsessed with this yarn ever since I used it for my Crochet Gingerbread Man Ornament because of its sturdier material compared to acrylic. It has many colors available, but Sepia has been my go-to shade so far. Of course, you can make it in your favorite color to guarantee that you’ll love to use the bag everywhere you go. 

The bag is very handy and did I say reusable? You can actually bring it when you do your market and grocery errands. It is compact and folds away easily, but can hold a lot of supplies even that big brown paper bag – so it would be great for a yarn bag or beach bag, too!

I really hope you can make this bag for yourself. And if you know someone who would love to make this, please do not hesitate to share it. In one way or another, we’ll be able to contribute in reviving our environment because this can actually help in reducing our single use plastic bags.

So keep on reading for the pattern below which is fully customizable and super easy. You can make the bag longer, shorter, wider or thinner, it’s totally up to you! Just don’t forget to enjoy the process of making it.

MATERIALS:

• Hook: 4.0mm crochet hook (US G-6 / UK 8)
• Yarn: I used the excess Dapper Dreamer Combed Cotton yarn in Sepia color which is approximately 390 meters. (This was the excess yarn of the second cone I used for the Star Stitch Purse I made last year.)
• Tapestry needle
• Stitch markers

ABBREVIATION/STITCHES:

• ch – chain 
• sc – single crochet (US) / dc – double crochet (UK)
• dc – double crochet (US) / tr – treble (UK)
• sc2tog – crochet two single crochet stitches together
• st(s) – stitch(es)
• sl st – slip stitch
• Asterisk * – repeat the pattern from point where you see this symbol. 
• [sc, inc] n times – repeat the pattern between parentheses n times. 
• (N sts) – number of stitches in a row after finishing round.

If you need guide with the stitches, you can always check my blog post about Basic Crochet Techniques HERE. 

GAUGE: 

• 7 open spaces and 7 rows = 3” square

NOTES:

• Chain 4 at the beginning of each row is considered as 1dc + 1ch Mesh Stitch (open space).
• Make sure to leave at least 2 yards of yarn for weaving the base.
• Finished bag measures 14.5” in height and 16.5” in width (measured flat lay). You’ll be able to adjust this in length by adding more rows and make it wider by adding more chains to the foundation chain. Total number of foundation chain should be in multiples of 2. 
• Any variations to hook size and yarn weight will also result in a different sized bag.

PATTERN

Chain 176 (I recommend making lose chains or use a one size bigger crochet hook as you will be working the first round in back humps of each chain), slip stitch into the first chain made. 

Round 1: ch 1, sc in each back humps of each chain around, sl st in the first sc made to join (176 sc sts made)

Round 2: ch 4, skip the first and second sts below, dc in next st, *ch 1, skip next st below, dc in next st. Repeat from * to last dc st, ch 1, skip last st below, sl st into the beginning 4ch space to join (88 open spaces made)

Round 3: ch 4, *dc in next dc st, ch 1. Repeat from * to last dc st, ch 1, sl st into the beginning 4ch space to join (88 open spaces made)

Round 4-33: repeat Round 3

Round 34: ch 2, sc in open space, [sc in next dc st, sc in next open space] 11 times, sc in next dc st, ch 100, skip next 19 open space below, [sc in next dc st, sc in next open space] 25 times, sc in next dc st, ch 100, skip next 19 open space below, [sc in next dc st, sc in next open space] 13 times, sl st in the 2nd ch of beginning chains to join (102 sc sts & 200 chain loops made)

Round 35: ch 1, sc in the same st as the beginning ch, sc in each of the next 24 sc sts, sc in each back hump of the next 100 chains, sc in the next 51 sc sts, sc in each back hump of the next 100 chains, sc in each of the remaining 26 sc sts, sl st in the first sc to join (302 sc sts made)

Round 36: ch 1, sc in the same st as the beginning ch, sc in each of the next 23 sts, sc2tog in the next 2 sts, sc in each 98 sts of first strap, sc2tog in the next 2 sts, sc in each of the next 49 sts, sc2tog in the next 2 sts, sc in each 98 sts of second strap, sc2tog in the next 2 sts, sc in each of the remaining 25 sts, sl st in the first sc to join (298 sc sts made)

Fasten off and weave in ends.

BASE ASSEMBLY: 

Place the piece in front of you in a flat surface. 

Fold it as shown on my photo below. The single crochet stitches rounds made on the bag’s body (Round 34 to 36) should be positioned on top of each other.

You will now work to create the sides of the bag by locating the center point. Each side of my bag has 25 open spaces from Round 33, so the center point should be the 13th open space. I recommend placing stitch markers so you’ll have guide when folding the sides later. 

Once done marking, fold inwards on both the sides as shown below. If you are familiar with making a brown paper bag or gift bag, the same process of folding the sides applies here. 

Sew the base back and forth using running stitch method. 

Lastly, fasten off then secure the ends. If you decide to make yours, I’d love to see it! Take a picture and share it on Instagram with the hashtag #iheartgantsilyo and tag @iheartgantsilyo.  Happy Crocheting!

After I’ve finished designing my first crochet shrug, I literally could not wait to design another project using the second fingering weight cake yarn that I bought last summer. And what better project to make than a simple crochet wrap!

The journey of making this wrap has been really interesting. I was led to trying out many different stitches before I came across the “column and bowl” stitch in one of my crochet books. At first, I was a bit intimidated by this new stitch because it is worked using treble stitch that I found quite challenging for my already stiff hands. In spite of that, I just dove right into giving it a try and with a few tweaks everything came together nicely. The stitch turned out to be so much fun to crochet, too. I could not be happier with the result!

Would you believe that before now I had never ever crocheted a shawl? This means this particular wrap is so easy and beginner friendly. You start with making 6 chains and one cluster of treble stitches in a magic ring which is the point of your triangle, then increase at the start and end of each subsequent row to make the piece wider. It’s basically a repetitive pattern and easily customizable to your preferred size. You can work on it until you get the width and length you want or until you run out of yarn! Just make sure to leave enough yarn if you plan to add tassels later.

The wrap can be worn around the shoulders as cover-up during breezy days or snuggled up around the neck as a scarf. I just need some cooler weather now to wear it! (Haha) Below is a photo of me taken as soon as I got the piece off my crochet hook. Excited? I was totally thrilled! I immediately went out with my brother to do some photoshoot before even blocking the wrap!

Being a hands-on mama to a very energetic four year old boy who loves to run around when we’re out traveling, I used to dismiss the idea of making a shawl for myself. I thought why bother wearing a shawl (let alone make one), when I know it will eventually fall out and left tucked inside my bag anyway. But lately, I’ve come to realize that this season of motherhood shall pass and soon I will be needing a shawl in my life. So might as well design something for myself, and work on making fun projects overall while doing my best to enjoy the exhausting but fulfilling moments with my son now.

I decided to name this the “Blissful Wings” wrap because the double crochet stitches I placed in between clusters of treble stitches created an illusion of a thousand vertical little wings. (See the stitches up close in my photo below)

If you’re a fan of meditation projects like me you’re going to love this project because you don’t have to focus on following a pattern. You only need to know chain, double crochet, and treble stitches. It’s a perfect project when you quite feel like hibernating and just want to crochet while watching your favorite series on TV or while drinking a cup of tea or coffee. I worked on it during Eion’s nap time and playdates.

While the yarn I used this time comes in a vibrant Carnation colorway which has always been one of my favorite shades of pink next to old rose, you can certainly make this shawl with any gradient or in a plain colored yarn whichever matches your style.

Just scroll to the detailed pattern below when you are ready. I’ve also managed to film a short Video tutorial and draw a crochet chart to make it easier for anyone who wants to try the pattern, regardless of language.

MATERIALS:

• Hook: 2.5mm crochet hook
• Fingering weight yarn, approximately 280g to obtain the same size of the shawl I made.
• Tapestry needle

ABBREVIATION/STITCHES:

• ch – chain 
• dc – double crochet (US) / tr – treble (UK)
• tr – treble stitch (US) / dtr – double treble stitch (UK)
• st(s) – stitch(es)
• Asterisk * – repeat the pattern from point where you see this symbol. 
• (N sts) – number of stitches in a row after finishing row.

If you need guide with the stitches, you can always check my blog post about Basic Crochet Techniques HERE.

NOTES:

• This shawl is constructed from bottom to top.
• Finished shawl measures 22” in height and 64” in width (wingspan). You’ll be able to adjust this in length and width by adding more rows. 
• Any variations to hook size and yarn weight will also result in a different sized shawl. 
• This is a double-sided wrap, which means it appears the same on both sides and can be worn either way.

PATTERN

Begin with a magic ring. 

Row 1: ch 6, 6tr in the magic ring, ch 6, turn (1 set of cluster made)

Row 2: 5tr in the same st as the beginning chains, skip 2 sts, dc in the next st, skip next 2 sts, 6tr in the 6th chain of the beginning chain below, ch 6, turn (2 sets of cluster made)

Row 3: 5tr in the same st as the beginning chains, skip 2 sts, dc in the next st, skip next 2 sts, 5tr in the next dc st below, skip 2 sts, dc in the next st, skip 2 sts, 6tr in the 6th chain of the beginning chain below, ch 6, turn (3 sets of cluster made)

Row 4: 5tr in the same st as the beginning chains, *skip 2 sts, dc in the next st, skip next 2 sts, 5tr in the next dc st below, repeat from * until last cluster of tr, skip 2 sts, dc in the next st, skip 2 sts, 6tr in the 6th chain of the beginning chain below, ch 6, turn (4 sets of cluster made)

Row 5-71 (or until you run out of yarn): repeat Row 4

Fasten off and weave ends. Now you’re done!

To see how I made the Crochet Blissful Wings Wrap in action you may watch my video tutorial below. This is my first ever crochet video tutorial, hope it helps!

I would love to see your finished wraps, so please feel free to share photos on Instagram with the hashtag #iheartgantsilyo and tag @iheartgantsilyo. I would love to see them!